Chef Ivan Brehm has returned to the dining scene in Singapore in a much more polished setting. I call this his third evolution. I’d even say he finally has a place that deserves his talent.
I’m a huge fan of Ivan’s cooking. It goes all the way back to the earlier iteration of Bacchanalia. Think borlotti beans, cocoa and scallops.
Nouri is a new establishment created by now legendary restaurant and hotelier, Loh Lik Peng and Ivan.
I asked what is (cuisine?) Nouri to chef, he simply smiled and said, “it’s more of me..”
Exactly what I missed when he took some time off before opening Nouri.
Nouri hits the right notes, delivering flavour, wit and excitement.
I had the (lunch) chef’s tasting menu which would give me an idea of the more comprehensive dinner menu.
The kitchen sent out a warm buratta salad dressed with oat water and an array of tomatoes. A simple, elegant and superb dish to open up your palette.
It’s great to see Ivan bringing in his Brazilian roots. This is a acaraje – traditional street snack made from black eyed peas. The acaraje was served with two types of “curries”, an homage to his adopted home. Loved that this is a fresh idea in a dining scene that’s running out of new ideas.
“Black pepper fish” was next. Possibly one of my favourite dishes in Ivan’s entire repertoire of dishes – past and present. This is a perfectly cooked grouper coated in a fish stock emulsion. The pepper sauce was a nuanced and delicate counterpoint to the luscious and buttery texture and flavour of the dish.
The cleanser! Palate cleanser. Brilliant use of nasturtium.
Desert came in two courses, Milli Vanilli (gotta love that name!) which is a rum- banana foam as well as Big Red Robe, a chocolate and plum dish paired with oolong tea.
Ivan’s back! And I’m looking forward to his creations in his third evolution! If my lunch is any indication, he continues to be whimsical and creative with out taking himself too seriously. The only serious thing about Nouri is the food and an amazing service staff. Jazz in my palate.
thebearandhiscigar 